Kenya has more than 40 ethnic groups, and its food reflects farming traditions inland and centuries of Arab, Persian and Indian trade on the Swahili coast. Everyday meals are simple and filling, while social occasions centre on grilled meat.

Staples

  • Ugali: a stiff porridge of maize flour, the staple of most Kenyan meals. Tear off a piece with your right hand, roll it into a ball and use it to scoop up stews and greens.
  • Sukuma wiki: collard greens sautéed with onions and tomatoes. The name means "stretch the week", because it is cheap and filling.
  • Githeri: a Kikuyu dish of maize and beans boiled together, sometimes with potatoes and greens.
  • Mukimo: mashed potatoes, peas, maize and greens from central Kenya.

Nyama choma

Nyama choma, grilled meat, usually goat or beef, is Kenya's great social food. Friends gather at a nyama choma joint, choose meat by weight, wait for it to be grilled and eat it with ugali, kachumbari (tomato and onion salad) and a cold Tusker beer. Nairobi's Carnivore restaurant is famous with visitors.

Swahili coast food

Along the coast in Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu, the food is spicier and richer:

  • Pilau: rice cooked with meat and a spice blend of cumin, cardamom, cinnamon and cloves.
  • Biryani: layered rice and meat, influenced by Indian cooking.
  • Samaki wa kupaka: grilled fish in a coconut and tamarind sauce.
  • Viazi karai: battered fried potatoes.

Snacks and tea

Mandazi, lightly sweet fried dough often flavoured with cardamom or coconut, are eaten with chai, black tea boiled with milk, sugar and sometimes ginger. Kenya is one of the world's largest tea exporters, and tea estates around Kericho and Limuru cover the highlands. Samosas, chapati and roasted maize sold by the roadside are popular snacks.

Culture

  • Harambee: meaning "let's pull together", the national motto reflects the tradition of communities raising money for schools, weddings and medical bills.
  • Ethnic diversity: the Kikuyu, Luhya, Kalenjin, Luo and Kamba are among the largest groups, and the Maasai and Samburu are known for their traditional dress and pastoral life.
  • Running: Kenyan long-distance runners from the Rift Valley town of Iten dominate world athletics.
  • Swahili culture: Lamu Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, preserves centuries-old Swahili architecture and donkey-filled streets.

Etiquette

  • Greetings matter: ask how someone is and how their family is before discussing business.
  • Use your right hand to eat, give and receive.
  • Elders are treated with great respect.
  • Ask before photographing people, especially in rural and Maasai communities.
  • Dress modestly on the coast, which is largely Muslim.
  • Tipping around 10% is appreciated in restaurants.

See our Kenya country guide for costs and data.