Ireland's reputation for plain food is out of date. The country produces some of Europe's best beef, lamb, butter, cheese and seafood, and Irish chefs have built a strong modern food scene around them. Traditional dishes are simple, hearty and built for a damp climate.
Traditional dishes
- Irish stew: lamb or mutton slow-cooked with potatoes, onions and sometimes carrots. Cooks argue fiercely about whether carrots belong.
- Full Irish breakfast: rashers (back bacon), sausages, black and white pudding, fried eggs, grilled tomato, mushrooms and toast or soda bread.
- Colcannon and champ: mashed potato mixed with cabbage or kale (colcannon) or with spring onions (champ), always with plenty of butter.
- Boxty: potato pancakes made with grated and mashed potato, a speciality of the northwest.
- Coddle: a Dublin dish of sausages, rashers, onions and potatoes simmered together.
- Bacon and cabbage: boiled bacon joint with cabbage and parsley sauce, a classic family dinner.
Bread and dairy
Soda bread, made with bread soda (baking soda) and buttermilk instead of yeast, is a staple. Brown soda bread with butter and smoked salmon is a classic starter. Irish butter, from grass-fed cows, is exported worldwide, and farmhouse cheeses such as Cashel Blue, Gubbeen and Durrus are worth trying.
Seafood
Ireland's Atlantic coast supplies oysters, mussels, crab, langoustines (Dublin Bay prawns) and wild salmon. Galway's oyster festival, held each September, is one of the oldest food festivals in Europe. Seafood chowder with brown bread is on almost every pub menu along the west coast.
Drinks
Guinness has been brewed at St James's Gate in Dublin since 1759, and the Guinness Storehouse is Ireland's most visited attraction. Irish whiskey has made a comeback, with more than 40 distilleries now operating, according to the Irish Whiskey Association. Tea remains the everyday drink: the Irish are among the world's biggest tea drinkers per person.
Pub culture
The pub is the centre of Irish social life, not just a place to drink. A few customs matter:
- Rounds: in a group, each person buys a round for everyone in turn. Skipping your round is a social sin.
- Order at the bar: most pubs have no table service.
- Trad sessions: musicians play traditional music informally. Listen quietly and do not join in unless invited.
- Last orders: pubs typically stop serving around 11:30pm, later at weekends.
Customs and conversation
The Irish value humour, modesty and storytelling. "Slagging", gentle teasing, is a sign of friendship, and boasting is frowned upon. "Grand" can mean anything from excellent to barely acceptable. Small talk about the weather is constant, and you will be asked "How's it going?" as a greeting, not a real question.
Avoid confusing Ireland with the UK. Northern Ireland is part of the UK, while the Republic of Ireland is independent, and history and politics are sensitive topics.
Festivals
St Patrick's Day on 17 March brings parades across the country. Halloween originated from the Celtic festival of Samhain, and Derry hosts one of the largest Halloween festivals in Europe. Summer brings music festivals, the Galway Races and the All-Ireland hurling and football finals in Croke Park.
For costs of eating out and groceries, see our Ireland country guide.